torsdag 30 juli 2015

Elizabethan coif in two ways part 2: wearing it

Sneak peak of final result.

Now I had two Elizabethan coifs, as described here - one made from Tudor Tailor pattern in three pieces, presumably a modern construction method, and one using a one piece construction.

First, I tested the (presumably) more historically accurate coif.

Making the proper hairdo took some fiddling. The basic idea was to make two braid and sort of tie them on the top of the head. That worked surprisingly well, even while my hair have a tendency to slip out of all manner of hairstyles. I tied the braids with bands, and used some hairpins to keep the braids from slipping down (the sturdy, u-shaped kind of pin).

The start...

(Ignore manic selfie expression)
Braids tied and secured with some hairpins
As expected, I have small strands of hair loose everywhere, looking odd. Please let's just pretend I did this on purpose, for testing how well the two coif keep hair in place!

First attempt at tying on the coif. Mostly it looks ok, but there is a weird shape at the bun. Apparently I need need to fill it with hair! As I just "happened" to have a box with hair I saved from my hairbrush for a year (just in case I would ever need it for costuming...), I used some of it, and pinned it onto the back of my head to fill up the circle made by the braids.
Hairpieces added
Then I put on the forehead cloth and the coif again, and tied the strings around the hair.

Forehead cloth
With untied coif
And finally the result with this coif: now with more proper clothing.
The result!

I then went back in to adapt the hairstyle for theTudor Tailor coif. Here, a smaller bun was needed, and as it had a bag shape, I just put some of my "hair balls" in the coif before putting it on.

What I needed for the hairdo.
This forehead cloth is shaped and wired

This version is not nearly as good as keeping the hair in, as the forhead cloth is not tied around the head.
I still belive more in the other copnstruction method, but this looks good. It has more the same shape as the picture in the beginning of this post, with only the forehead cloth extending on the top of the head. It did not want to stay securely, so I ended up putting a hairpin through the fabric and into the hair bun on the top of the head. The same effect as the plastic comb, but without the plastic. That way, it stayed on well, even thou it is not nearly as well secured as the tied on version.

Finally, I couldn't resist making a modern "doing laundry" picture, inspired by a painting in Tudor Tailor of ordinary women doing laundry...

HSM Facts:

What the item is: Two coifs for a working woman in 1560-1570 England - using construction that is presumably modern (1) respectively period  (2)

The Challenge: #7 Accesorise

Fabric: (1) linen salvaged from a discarded shirt;  (2) random linen from stash

Pattern: (1) Tudor Tailor; (2) based on extant coifs 

 Notions: (1) poly thread, millinary wire and waxed linen thread; (2) waxed linen thread

How historically accurate is it? 
(1) probably just halfway. Fabric is correct, but it is machine seamed in all the non-visible seams. And while I have the deepest respect for the knowledge and skill of the Tudor Tailor authors, I believe that their coif pattern is a modern way of achieving the right look, (and an easier way if you don't have massive amounts of hair).
(2) quite close. Hand seamed, linen, and a construction that seems plausible. Still needs some fiddling with the shape of the coif to get the perfect look.

Hours to complete:
(1) maybe 5 h, attaching the wires took me a lot of time (2) 3 h.

First worn: nothing planned yet. I rarely use this dress, and this was supposed to be a quick way of making my outfit more complete just in case I would want to wear it for something.

Total cost: Small amounts and some reused fabric, so almost nothing.

Elizabethan coif in two ways part 1: reseach and making

As the July challenge for the Historical Sew Monthly was "Accesories", I decided that it was time to finish my basic coif I started long ago, to have something to wear with my red tudor dress. (The dress can be seen in the wardrobe, where I wear it with a borrowed coif. ) I aimed for something that would be fitting for a lower or middle class English women in around the 1560-1570's, something like this picture.

Coif with forehead cloth ; Civitates Orbis Terrarium
I started by following the pattern and instruction for a Elizabethan coif in the book The Tudor Tailor. As the book generally seems extremely well researched, I did no research of my own. In fact, I did not even google pictures, I just made the same coif as in the pictures in the book, assuming the authors would know better than me anyway. The coif is constructed as a circle of fabric gathered into a band to form a bag or "muffin" shape. This is then attached to a piece that covers the ears and a little bit of the top of the head. Another separate piece called the forehead cloth covers - you guessed right - the forehead. The edges of the fabric are wired to help it keep its shape. This page has some pictures and information of this type of coif.

The finished coif

When I was finished however I ran into problems - I did not understand how it was supposed to stay on my head. I went looking on the internet. It seemed that I was not the only one wondering on how to make it stay on. Plastic combs sewn into the coif was suggested, a solution that seemed practical but unsatisfactory to me. I have lots of hair - surely I should be able to wear a coif in a period way? This was when I ran into Laura Mellins excellent page with a discussion on why this was not the way to construct and wear a coif. She argues that all surviving coifs from around this period are in one piece (except the forehead cloth), not three, and also that it is not plausible that a working woman's headwear would not be well secured on your head. How could you work if your headwear keeps falling of? In the article, and citing lots of period sources to back up her arguments, she shows how to made a one piece coif and achieve the right shape by tying its ties around a large hair bun. A forehead cloth tied on first serves to anchor the coif further. I then decided I needed to make another coif, and try this construction method as well.

I made this one unlined, as someone stated that coifs could be both lined and unlined, and lining a simple linen coif did not seem to be needed. After all it could easily be washed, and there is no embroidery to protect on this one. It is cut in the same shape as some extant coifs. I followed the pattern and instruction on this page. The page has good instructions for both wearing and making this type of coif, as well as pictures of different varieties of it. When making it up, the fabric is folded, and the top edge is seamed to be the seam at the top of the head. The "bulges" at the side that can be seen in the picture below sits over the ears, and the bottom edge is gathered by a drawstring to be at the neck (hard to explain, but the linked instructions has lots of pictures.)
Emboidered coif from the Victoria & Albert museum in London

I also left out the wires, aiming for a very basic coif for a working woman.
Coif without drawstrings pulled

Coif gathered with drawstring, and forehead cloth
 The coif went together fast, and the only thing left was to figure out how to make the hair stay in the right shape. After all, it is no idea to fasten the coif firmly to the hair if the hair does not stay put!

For the HSM facts, final photshot and my experiment with how to make a hairdo, see next post!